Chinese Lunar New Year, in Singapore

This week is Chinese New Year, and I got a very traditional view of the customs and festivities in Singapore.  The past few years, I have been very much a foreigner – and not been able to fully appreciate this holiday, which is very much family-focused in the Chinese tradition.  But since this year, I am living with Uncle Chow and was able to join him for all of his family activities.

In Singapore, Chinese New Year (or CNY) is a 4-day holiday weekend with different activities taking place each day.  My enjoyment with Uncle began on Saturday, when we visited his son’s house for the “family reunion dinner”.  On Sunday, all of the children and grandchildren come to visit Uncle at his house.  And Monday (today) involved more family get together.  Tomorrow, I think I will have a rest!!

Chinese New Year Eve

On Saturday, I was invited to join Uncle Chow in visiting his son’s family in the Eunos area of Singapore (on the eastern part of the island).  We were expected around 2pm for an afternoon of visiting and a family dinner.  We took the subway to get there, and then transferred to bus.  Along the way, Uncle and I were chatting and drew the attention of several people on the train who were surprised to see a young American and an elder Singaporean speaking in mandarin and obviously such close friends!  We made a few new friends when they asked us how we knew each other.

When we arrived at Uncle’s son’s house, I met his son for the first time. His son, Ying Keong, was very friendly to me – making me feel much at home in his spacious apartment.  I also met Ying Keong’s kind wife, and their three daughters – two of whom are in University, and the other is in middle school.  Also, Uncle’s wife (their grandmother) lives in their home, as she had a stroke a few years ago and needs more care than Uncle can provide on a daily basis.   Everyone was very kind and glad to invite me into their traditions.  We enjoyed a delicious vegetarian dinner of Hot Pot.  I also played a few fun games of cards and checkers with Ying Keong’s daughters.  Sadly though, the youngest daughter defeated me mercilessly in checkers!

 

The Midnight Ramblers

Uncle and I returned to Chinatown after the family reunion dinner. As this was Chinese New Year Eve, Chinatown was very crowded. They hold a parade, a variety show, and fireworks every year in the heart of Chinatown.  We avoided the crowds by watching the activities from our window, 21 floors above.  I got a good – though partially blocked – view of the fireworks at eye level from my bedroom window!

Uncle has his own special tradition on Chinese New Year Eve.  He is a keen bargain hunter all year long, but he knows that CNY is a particularly ripe time to find good deals.  But only if you wait til after midnight on CNY eve.  By then, most of the shop owners are in a hurry to get rid of last minute merchandise before Singapore turns into a ghost-town the next few days when everyone is out visiting family.  So Uncle waits til after midnight and then goes out to buy candies, cookies, and decorations at half-price from the festive street stalls in the neighborhood.

I had heard for weeks that Uncle was famous for this, so I was sure to join him when he went out on his ‘midnight ramble’.  … The streets were way more crowded and chaotic than I had expected.  I had imagined Uncle as the shrewd bargainer, combing the desolate streets for deals. But it seems that lots of other people had the same idea as Uncle. 

It was madness with people cramming the streets and alley-ways buying Chinese cookies, and imported fruits.  Uncle ended up getting some good deals on jars of cookies and some of his favorite Pomelo fruits.  You can see a photo here of Uncle shopping amidst the crowds.  And above, you can see the giant yellow snake made out of Chinese lanterns that is currently living atop one of Chinatown’s busiest streets. 2013 is the year of the snake.

Visiting Grandpa

Sunday of the CNY holiday is when all children and grandchildren return home to their parents’ house to visit and exchange gifts.  Singapore is rapidly becoming more and more “modern” – by which I mean people see their grandparents less and less.  The CNY visits then are often one of the few times in the year that people have/take the time to see their elders.  So it is a pretty special day for Uncle – who sometimes gets a bit lonely living alone in Chinatown (or with tenants).

And it was a full day!!  Uncle has seven children and 21 grandchildren, and they all dropped by during the day on Sunday.  It is the tradition for children and grandchildren to visit and receive a Hong Bao (红包) gift from their grandparents, aunts, and uncles.  A Hong Bao is a “red envelope” in English – and is a fancy paper envelope with some amount of money inside.  Uncle gave one envelope to each of his grandchildren; and since he is an old man now, his own children give a red envelope with money to him – to help him in his old age.

It was a real parade of relatives visiting the house all afternoon.  And it was a joy and an honor for me to meet all of Uncle’s kin.  Everyone lives in different parts of Singapore, most places of which I have visited before, so I could talk with them about their neighborhoods and my experiences in Singapore so far.  Everyone was very kind and interested to meet this young foreigner who was keeping their grand-dad company.  Many of Uncle’s grandchildren are in University, working, or even have children of their own (great-grandchildren)!

To me it was really nice to get this very distinct family perspective in Singapore. As an expatriate working here, I’d not experienced the traditional family customs or relationships.  I’ve spent time with young Singapore friends, but never in this family setting.  It was a great experience for me – and I got to see how Asian families here have the same joys, challenges, humor, and concerns as my own family has back in the USA.

Tossed Salad

On the second day (after CNY eve) of Chinese New Year, Singapore has the unique tradition of having a special meal called Yu Sheng (鱼生） [also known as Lo Hei].  This custom is shared with family or friends, and involves a big meal where the central dish is a very colorful plate of noodles, shredded carrots and cucumbers, along with sweet sauces and … Raw Fish!!  The reason for the raw fish is a Chinese play on words.  In Chinese, to pronounce “Yu Sheng” can also mean “increasing abundance” -- of health, wealth, or happiness.  So, to encourage a lucky and abundant new year, the Chinese eat “Yu Sheng”, as represented in the Raw Fish!  [very clever!!]

Another aspect of this dish is to toss the ingredients of the fish-salad.  Each member of the family gathers around the large, round plate and takes a pair of chop-sticks to then dig into the salad, lifting pieces into the air and mixing as we toss. The higher you toss, the more luck you bring in the coming year.  At the same time, people shout out the things they are hoping for in the months to come… more money, a new job, better grades, less homework, or greater health.  It is a really fun custom, and a delicious meal.

I joined Uncle in visiting his youngest daughter’s house for the Yu Sheng meal.  His daughter, Lai Leng, welcomed us with her husband, their three young children, her parents-in-law (who live with them in their apartment), and her husband’s brother’s family.  It was a fun afternoon of eating, piano playing (all of the children are taking lessons), and playing games.  I brought some American M&Ms and the card game, UNO, as a gift for the kids. We played UNO and a few rounds of Hangman, and had a good time.

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So it was a really special weekend, and I was happy to join Uncle’s family for a very traditional Chinese New Year in Singapore.